In a previous post, I outlined the steps to recreate this runway look. Here’s a link: https://cloningcouture.com/2020/05/11/how-to-use-your-moulage/ to a more detailed description of the modifications to a basic pattern that I made.
The mockup was done on a half-scale mannequin but a full size pattern worked better for the collar draft. Here’s my final collar pattern which I tested with hymo canvas and a piece of scrap boucle.
When looking closely at couture designs, I’ve noticed that a horizontal weave in the fabric travels straight across the the upper body and continues through the sleeve, creating an unbroken line in the fabric. This half scale jacket illustrates the difference.
The right side of the jacket has been cut with the princess seam ending at mid shoulder. For the left side, the princess seam was shifted from the bust apex to a point closer to the neck (about 1 inch). This pattern adjustment makes the princess line on the side panel more vertical and requires less manipulation of the fabric. Refer to the previous post linked above for a more complete explanation of the pattern changes.
Here’s the full scale side panel being steamed and shaped.
Here’s a preview of the custom trim. I rarely use pre-made trims as most are too stiff and rigid. This one has been created with tubes of matching silk georgette fabric and yarn. This one turns corners easily and compliments the boucle.
Waiting for silk buttonhole twist to arrive.
Simply stunning! Beautiful job matching the strips and trim. Thank you for sharing your methods and thought process behind what you are doing.
Thanks Tamara. Finishing touches and inside views coming soon.
Great looking trim! I am struggling to create some trim for a jacket I’m working on. Those georgette tubes are fabulous. How did you make the borders on each side?
The trim is a combination of braiding and crochet. I’ll do a post on trims soon. Thank you.
Absolutely incredible! Exquisite finishing and details. Beautiful couture quality.
Thank you. Details are everything.
Glorious jacket! The trim is so much a part of the jacket and doesn’t look like an appendage, even though it technically is an appendage 🙂 . Thank you for sharing this.
Yes, it’s hard to find appropriate trim, especially in non-basic colors. Chanel jackets I’ve seen have trims that were made to compliment the fabric.
That is so beautiful. The collar is a work of art.
Pad stitching and canvas are the key to getting the roll. Thank you.
Mary,
W-O-W.
The trim is so phenomenal. Brings us back to early Chanel when her suits had a modest amount of embellishing.
This suit , due to the perfect trim, is so easy to wear for the office.
C – level professionals like me have to be very very selective because suits with flamboyant embellished fringe do not do well in our working environment. In fact, when worn the suit either projects an alienating persona or an air of superiority rather than an approachable , problem solving persona.
It’s a challenge to find a suit that says “ hey my door is open “ and also “ don’t cross me”.
I am looking very much forward to learning from you.
Cordially,
Jen Robinson-Williams
Thank you. It looks so much more finished with the trim, yet not overdone.
Oh my goodness, this is just divine! I think 10 more posts would be great, it’s not possible to tire of these photos and your explanations, Mary. 💐
Thanks Kathy. More coming.
Your trim is absolutely lovely. Was it very difficult to do? I am getting ready to start a “Little French Jacket” after the new year and I have not had much luck finding an appropriate trim. Is there a book or reference on how to create your own?
Unfortunately I haven’t found much written. I experiment until I come up with something I like.
This is beautiful and fascinating, Mary. Looking forward to your next post.
Thank you Karen. Inside details next.
How you make the Trim for the new dress from 22.oct.
I’ll do a post on creating custom trims. Thanks for asking.
Thank you so much. I will Develop my Skills, But it is so difficult, there are no Lessons and on Books to unterstand what is possible and what the Technik is for that. Your Website is for me The one and only in this field to sew the Boucle fabric and so jacket and dresses. Thanks from Germany
Thank you so much for letting me know. Glad my posts are helpful.
Thanks so much for this post with its immaculate work and interesting detail. I learn from all your posts Mary and your work inspires me to do the best I can at the level I am right now. Trim has been puzzling me for a while now and I’m looking forward to learning more about it.
Thank you for reading and letting me know. I’m hard at work on methods for creating trims.
Mary, It’s so beautiful and your technical skills elevate the dress superbly. Hopefully, with aid of your generous writings, I can start to approach creating a dress as beautiful as this is. Thank you for sharing this complicated process. I love the trim (and fabric), too.
Thanks. Yes what looks like a simple dress can be elevated to couture level. Thank you for folllowing.
Oh the details! Make all the difference. It’s looking stunning.
Two things-
The first picture of the red, blue and white dress shows the collar was cut on grain and not on the bias, but it has a beautiful roll much like your example. Was that collar subjected to iron work like your example? Or was there another secret “out carture” technique that was used we haven’t seen?
No one has mentioned the beautifully set in sleeve on your dress. Exquisite little roll at the cap, and perfect fabric pattern matching with the bodice are subtle examples of perfect dressmaking.
I eagerly wait for more….
Thank you John. Yes the collar is shaped so that the horizontal weave in the fabric follows the edge. It is cut with crosswise grain going around the collar. Thanks for mentioning the sleeve. It’s tons of subtle details that all work together.
I, too, noticed that beautiful sleeve! I always look at shoulders and sleeve caps first when looking at a garment for some reason. Seeing a beautifully executed sleeve insertion just makes my heart sing! And the collars on the Chanel runway really are beautiful. Thank you for sharing your expertise, Mary.
Thank you. The collar and sleeve cap were an experimentation. I’m also happy with the way they turned out.
Hi Mary!! Remember Whalers Point? Last time I saw you we bumped into each other on a ski gondola! Hope you are well! Sherry
Absolutely!!! How are you? I’ll send you a longer PM. Funny that you found this blog; are you sewing?
Incidentally this very dress was the pattern of the month in the Spanish ‘Patrones’ magazine, April 2021 issue (they also publish online).
Your version of it is lovely, especially the handmade trim (and probably fits way better than a commercial pattern!)
Thank you. Fun to recreate this.