Want to add a stand collar to your French jacket but don’t have a pattern? Here are easy directions for drafting your own. Two jackets to which I’ve added a stand collar.
I used Vogue 7975 which has a high round neck. To draft the collar measure the pattern from center back to the shoulder seam. Note that measurement. Then measure from shoulder seam to center front.
Draw lines at right angles to each other in the lower left corner of pattern paper.
Mark the intersection of the two lines CB (center back). Measure to the right of CB the length of CB to shoulder seam as measured on the jacket pattern. Mine was 3 5/8 inches. Be sure to measure the seam line, NOT cut edge. Mark shoulder point.
From the shoulder point measure towards the right the distance from shoulder to center front on the jacket pattern. Mine was 4 1/2 inches. Mark the point as CF (center front).
Draw a line 3/4 inch long up from CF.
Using a French curve draw a smooth curve from the shoulder point to the point 3/4 inch above the bottom line.
Decide how wide you want the collar. I used 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line parallel to the bottom line.
You can leave the top edge square or round off the corner. I use a circle template to determine how I want the curve shaped.
Finished collar pattern. This pattern has no seam allowances. I cut it from card stock so it’s sturdier and can be used as a template for pressing the seam allowances under.
The collar is slightly curved. Rather than cutting the collar so that the horizontal weave of the fabric is interrupted, the couture way of working is to cut a straight strip of fabric on the crossgrain. The fabric is shaped with steam into a curve to match the collar pattern. Position the fabric wrong side up with the neckline seam away from you. Using a steam iron, stretch the upper edge and ease the bottom edge to create a curved strip of fabric. The curve of fabric should match the curve of the collar pattern.
Thread trace the seam lines. To make the curved edges identical use the card stock template to press seam allowances under. A machine basting stitch along the curve can help ease in fullness. Add either fusible or sew-in interfacing. I used fusible for this demo.
Press the seam allowances along the outer edge of the collar under. Don’t press the seam which will join the collar to the jacket. The template will ensure the curved ends are identical. The inside of the collar can be either self fabric or lining. I’ve used self fabric for this inside collar. Attach the outer collar to the jacket along the neckline. Fell stitch the turned under edges of outer and inner collar together.
Next up will be transforming the two piece sleeve of Vogue 7975 into a three piece.
Oh! Mary! I love these tutorials so much! And you are so generous to share them! Thank you! I will be trying this!
Thanks for letting me know. Glad the instructions were useful.
Thanks so much for a great post! If the self fabric is used for the inside, can I assume that the same shaping is done? And a silk lining would just be cut as the curved pattern?
I’m also hoping that you will add a third custom trims class as I was not fast enough to register before these sold out!
You are correct about not shaping a silk lining. You can sometimes coax silk into a slight curve but since the lining is likely a solid or print, it’s not necessary to shape it. I will be doing more trim classes as soon as I have time. Thanks.
Love this. Thankyou
Another wonderful and timely tutorial! I was thinking about how to do this this week – not for my jacket but a silk blouse made out of the lining fabric to wear with my jacket. Many of the collar drafting principles should apply to the blouse. Thank you!
Thank you. Yes, same draft for a blouse collar. Measure the neckline of the blouse pattern. If you want the collar to overlap for a button, then extend past the CF. Also, silk won’t shape like boucle so cut the silk as per pattern.
Hi Mary!
These instructions are fabulous. Thank you for posting.
I personally prefer a military style collar and these procedure steps will be valuable when I tackle such a project.
Jacqueline
Such a detailed education which I can use on many different garment/fabrics. Big THANK YOU.
You’re welcome. Glad this will be useful.
Thank You Very Very much for this Draft.
I Just Read the Comment above. I Think the Collar I have been hoping to Make is a Military Collar…Do You Follow the Same Steps and Use the Same Curve for the First Jacket Image as You do for the Second Jacket…
The Second is a jewel type Neck line and the First looks like a Steeper Angle to C Front.
Yes, same steps. You can curve the collar a little more in which case it will hug the neck tighter. A straight collar will sit further away from the neck, especially in front.
Thanks for this tutorial ! I remember your approach to forming/creating the curve from your couture skirt article in Threads in 2018. There you used petersham to add support in the waistband. A little steam works magic !!
Thanks. Shaping with steam an make such a difference.