Mary Funt has more than 25 years of experience in creating couture bridal and evening wear. She has studios in New York and Palm Beach. In addition to working with private clients, Mary also writes a blog, Cloning Couture, which discusses many details of couture sewing and is a regular contributor to Threads Magazine. She teaches privately in-person and on-line and is a member of Association and Design Professionals (ASDP).
Exploring the world of couture sewing
Hello,
I LOVE your blog. I am a 54 year old sewer/patternmaker in SF Bay area and I have so little time to sew for myself since I spend my week sewing for others. I love your detailed explanation. Threads mag can be so hokey and home sewer like too often. I appreciate you. Thanks,
Leslie
Thanks for your feedback. I’m glad you found my blog and enjoy it. It can be hard to find information geared towards high end sewing. I agree with you that too many magazines cater to easy, fast sewing. I’ll try and keep the creative things coming.
I am in florida
20 miles up north of WPB
When is your next class
I went to a class in CA
Thank you for reading. Class schedule being organized now.
I am so glad to find your blog, I really appreciate the great effort you put into it.
great blog!
Appreciate all the detailed sleeve pattern information.
Have you determined any guidelines for armscye depth or is it just trial and error based on body, arm, fabric?
Mostly trial and error. I usually lower the jacket armhole 1 inch from the sloper and see how that feels. Bulkier fabrics need to be lowered more than thin. For a blouse or lightweight dress I would lower about half an inch. My armholes are usually higher than those in a commercial pattern.
Hi Mary, can you email me privately as I have a blogging question? surroundedbywhite@gmail.com
Thanks!
Appreciate your sewing knowledge and blog very much. Exactly what I was looking for. Sewing well takes time and this is reflected in technique, construction, fabric and pattern choice. Thank you for sharing you’re experiences and knowledge. Deb M.
Thanks for the feedback. I try and explore topics not usually covered in most sewing books. Most of the information out there is geared towards the beginner or intermediate level sewer. I focus on the techniques that will push your sewing skills into the expert realm. I’m always happy to elaborate on anything you find not clear. Happy sewing!
Hi Mary, do you know of anyone in the Dallas-Fort Worth area that teaches more high end sewing techniques like what you do? Thanks!
So sorry but I don’t have any contacts in that area. I’m based in Palm Beach and Long Island; both not convenient to you.
Hi Mary,
I just found your amazing blog and I’m trying to subscribe, but WordPress keeps asking for a valid email address even after I entered it. Can you look into this please? I don’t want to miss any of your posts! Thanks!
I’m not sure what the problem might be. If your email has certain characters it might not be accepted. I did a search and that seemed the most likely explanation. If you continue to have the issue, send me your email address and I’ll contact WordPress support. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Hi again,
Thanks for looking into this.
My email is handmadeinbk(at)gmail.com
Thank you for the detailed tutorials !
Gabriela, Romania
Thank you Gabriela. I’m glad you enjoy them and hope the information I write about is useful.
Hello 🙂
Your blog is gorgeous! I love the couture techniques and it looks like you know much about the old craft of sewing. I´m from germany and in my second education of sewing. It is based on the industrial processing, but since my internship at the theater, i´m totally of the old tailor´s art pulled in spell! I would be happy if it would give tutorials on the stitch or the prick out.
Best regards
Ramona 🙂
Nice to meet you and I too love the old world techniques. German tailors are among the best in the world and I’ve also explored the world of German pattern drafting and its some of the most exacting. I’m not sure what you mean by “stitch or prick out”. It may be a translation issue. Please elaborate and I will try and help. I’m glad you like my blog and find the topics I cover interesting.
Just discovered your fantastic blog, and subscribed immediately! Thank you for sharing your couture sewing processes.
Happy you found me and delighted you find my posts interesting. Thank you
I’ve just discovered your marvellous blog after searching Google for ‘how to trim a Chanel-style jacket’. I’m a new sewer, albeit in my late 40’s, but much more interested in traditional and couture techniques and construction. I want clothes that fit but also clothes that last and that are constructed with linings and interlinings. So much commercial sewing info is for fast fashion which can be whipped up in an evening so it’s so nice to find this extremely helpful blog. Thank you so much for sharing your work and please,please continue.
Thank you. It’s nice to know that you find my posts helpful. I agree with you that much of the sewing information is geared towards fast and easy. I try and cover topics that there isn’t much written about and tips that will be helpful in creating top quality clothing. Many of the techniques aren’t particularly difficult, just take some time and effort.
Hi, do you make custom gowns and dresses? And/or do you by any chance give sewing classes?
I have several private clients and do custom work. I also offer private lessons and am considering doing some group workshops in the New York area. Thanks for your interest.
Hi Mary, I am interested in taking the private lessons if it’s in NY area. I live in the city. Let me know the details. Thanks!
What area of construction are you interested in? Do you want to work on a specific project, fitting, or general couture techniques? I’m booked until April but have time then.
Hi Mary,
I wish to refer to a previous post. In Fitting for Couture: April 2014 you have written under photograph 3: “More padding until the moulage is filled out. This will take several tries but just keep shaping until the moulage is filled but not bursting. For my form cover I made another moulage from linen and added neck and armhole facings”.
Mary, I have several questions, could you please email me on
smith.janet.r@edumail.vic.gov.au
Thank you, Janet
Hi Mary,
Want to find specific topics on your site but am not finding a Search option.
Please advise.
Thank you.
Scroll all the way to the bottom of a page and there should be a drop down box called “See More About” If that doesn’t help, tell me what you are searching for and I will try and help. I will need to look at Word Press to see if there is a way to search for specific words. Thanks for reading.
Hi Mary
I adore your blog. Is there any chance you could do a post on your training and how you reached this expert level. I have tried to look through almost every post but I don’t think I have come across anything like it!
Thank you
Thank you Alesha. I learned basic sewing from my mother. The rest came from reading every book I could find, videos and lots of trial and error. There are so many internet resources now and I think information about couture level sewing is easier to find now.
Dear Mary,
I have been following your blog for a few years and I am a great admirer. I have come to the conclusion that the depth of my appreciation is not the same as my skill (high appreciation, low skill…and time.) Are you accepting new clients?
Thank you.
Thank you for following. You can email me at mf953 at aol dot com regarding projects or instruction. I do work with private clients either in person or via Skype.
A wonderful resource for Chanel fittings and wonder if you would allow me to put a link to your blog on my pinterest page or not please
Please send the link to your Pinterest page. I would love to see it before approving your request. I’ve had some spammers who have reposted my work so please understand my desire to look at your page first.
Thank you so much for your helpful arm pattern for a dress form. I have been checking out some of your others posts and love them! You are so appreciated!
Thanks Nancy. Glad you liked the arm pattern.
Hi Mary! I have the same fabric you used in your August 28, 2018 blog. I bought it for a jacket, and I have 2.5 yards. I have decided I have too many jackets and I am thinking about a tunic with sleeves. Do you have any comments about the thickness of this fabric for a tunic? Any other ideas… thanks! Patty Lawrence
It’s fairly lightweight. I didn’t underline and used crepe de chine for lining. It was comfortable for an outdoor August wedding. Would love to see what you make.
Hi Mary! I have enjoyed your posts and learned a lot. I am in hot pursuit of a Chanel jacket with buttons, however I am fairly sure the weave is too loose for buttonholes. Have you seen any where the buttonhole would be worked, but not cut
, thus really for show only? (I doubt I would ever button the jacket anyway.). Another thought I had was to use a fusible interfacing at the buttonhole and test whether that would be stable enough. Any thoughts or advise? Thanks! Patty
Hi, Mary! The shop link in the August 2020 post doesn’t seem to work. Thanks.
I just checked the post and it seems to work. If you have difficulty try going to “cloning-couture.com” directly. Thanks so much for letting me know.
How do I receive more information on your Zoom trim class? When is the date & time? How does one sign up?
Class was just posted. Thank you.
I shows that the page error 404.
Link is fixed. Thanks for letting me know.
I was too late in signing up for your Trim Class. I am very interested so please let me know if you will be doing another one. Thank you!
Hi Mary, I subscribe to your wonderful blog. I see on your web site you offer a $300 tutorial on how to make a custom Dress Form. Before I can decide whether to sign up for it I have a few questions. I can’t find how to contact you other than through this site. How do I ask my questions?
Hi Mary I found this blog while I was searching for a pattern for collars on a coat. I have this coat that is part felt on top and part I’m not sure what they call that material that all these puffy coats are made of. Anyway, I want to cover the felt part to make it more resistant to wind and cold so I created a pattern with the existing coat. I made a mock up with lining material to see if it all fits together. I got to the collar and I was having a hard time with that. I got your February 2022 post about stand up collars and I will give it a go. This coat has a button off hood and I am going to line that with a black fuzzy plush like material and I can use it on the cuffs, as a trim, where I think I may have cut it too close. I will use that plush on one side of the collar. Any advice on creating that pattern? I love to sew. My mom sent me to sewing classes for 3 years at les Seures Superior in downtown Montreal, when I was about 12 or so and I hated it. ( it was 8 in the morning on a Saturday and what 12 year old wants to ride the subway all by herself on a cold morning to do THAT!)
Photos would really help. It’s hard to visualize from your description exactly what you would like to do. You can email me at mf953@aol.com. Thanks for reading.
Hi
I just realized I responded to a NO-Reply email address
I just signed up for both classes March 22 and April
Your website states the classes are 5-7 PM EST (Noon HST)
Is it really 5-7 PM EDST??? (11 AM HST)
We don’t change time here in Hawaii So ????
Thanks
Eileen Roether
Class time will be 5-7 PM eastern time. You’re right that we will have switched to daylight savings time. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I send a reminder several days before class along with the Zoom link. I’ll be sure to clarify the time. For your purposes, whatever time in Hawaii corresponds with eastern time on that day. Look forward to seeing you.
Will you offer Zoom class on making custom trims anytime soon? I love your trims and would love to learn more.
I’ll be offering more trim classes starting in the fall. Thanks,
Hi,
Which chain do you use inside the jacket? How style, How wide, which material?
Do you have a supplier link ?
Chain is available in my store. Click on the link to shop
Hi there Mary! I live in Broward and work in Boynton. I’m interested in having a gown custom made for my son’s wedding (in 18 months….) Do you do this?
Yes. You can email me at MF953@aol.com and we can discuss. Thanks for contacting me.