couture sewing

Pleating Detail for Marfy Top

I’ve received a few requests to elaborate on how I pleated the front neckline of the Marfy top pattern. Here is the step-by-step process.

Full size muslin front

The top front cut in muslin. I’ve marked the seam lines. Starting at the center front, mark 1 and 1/4 inches away from the center front on both sides. Label both these marks and the center front “A.” Make another mark 1/2 inch away from “A” on both sides. Label this mark “B.” Another mark 7/8 inch away from “B” and this is also labeled “B.” Another mark 1/2 inch away from the second “B” and this is “C.” Finally measure out 7/8 inch from “C” and mark another “C.” Your top should look like this.
pleat 2
pleat 3

Now bring both “A”s together meeting at the center front.
pleat 4
Fold another pleat so the “B”s meet.
pleat 5
Then the “C”s. Do this on both sides of center front.
pleat 8
Finished pleating. Baste on the seamline. Don’t press flat. The inverted pleat at the center front prevents the fabric from poufing out too much. I liked this look better than gathers. I hope this make sense. If not let me know what is unclear. Thanks for all your comments.

4 thoughts on “Pleating Detail for Marfy Top”

  1. Hi Mary – I received my copy of Threads in the mail last night and saw your stunning jacket in the reader’s closet section – just wanted to say it is gorgeous!

  2. Hi Mary, Just found your blog via Threads magazine. You make such beautiful garments! I like how you have pleated your neckline. Might try that on my next Mary top.

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