couture sewing

First Project of the New Year

I joined the Ready-to-Wear Fast on It is a pledge to refrain from ready-to wear clothing for this year. What a great idea and it will also motivate me to use up some of my ever growing fabric stash!
While in Paris and London over the holidays I couldn’t help but notice that everything was devoid of color. All black and white-everywhere!
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I found a lovely piece of wool, angora and rabbit hair double cloth in my fabric stash and decided it would make a fabulous cape. Amazingly it was black and white. Double cloth is two layers of fabric, usually contrasting colors or textures, woven together. Seaming this fabric is time consuming but the result is a truly reversible garment. After cutting the pattern pieces, the edges of the fabric need to be separated. This can be maddingly laborious so I usually do it while watching TV. The fabric edges need to be peeled apart for a little more than double the seam allowance.
double cloth seam 4
Seam the face side of the fabric together in the usual manner. Press open. Then turn under both edges of the reverse fabric side and slip stitch.

double cloth seam 1double cloth seam 3

I wanted bound buttonholes for the front closure. The two fabric layers were peeled apart for about 3 inches along the center front. This gave me room to construct buttonholes. I like my bound buttonholes to be between 1/4 and 3/8 inch wide. Too wide and they don’t look professional. The lips of the buttonholes were formed from a single layer of the black fabric. On the facing side, I stitched a rectangle of white silk organza to the white facing side of the buttonholes. Turn and press and hand stitch to the reverse side of the buttonhole.

buttonhole closeup 2buttonhole closeup

Next was drafting a collar. I used scrap fleece which was the same weight and body as the double cloth. I draped a collar and will show the construction and finishing in the next post.
cape collar draft
This is how the cape is progressing.
cape with collar draft
A shot of the reverse side of the buttonholes.
cape buttonholes

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