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The Tel Aviv Dress

This dress was christened the “Tel Aviv Dress” owing to the fabric’s design reminiscent of the distinctive architecture of the “White City” or Tel Aviv.

The fabric is from Mendel Goldberg Fabrics, NYC and is a silk cloque. The name cloque is derived from the French term for blistered, meaning the fabric has an irregularly raised, “blistered” surface. It is a border print so the biggest challenge was deciding how to place the pattern pieces for the best effect.

The best way to visualize this was to spread the fabric on a large surface and experiment (using yardstitcks) with various positioning of the skirt and bodice sections.

The best option seemed to be that of the large photo as it placed most of the middle design around the skirt hem and still left room to cut the bodice. The hem would be faced so no need to allow several inches for a turned-up hem.

Rather than mess with altering a commercial pattern, I work from a custom block/sloper drafted from the client’s measurements. Once I have the master pattern, it’s a matter of manipulating the darts to obtain a princess seamed bodice.

The skirt was to be full but the rigidity of this fabric didn’t lend itself to attractive gathering or pleats. I opted to use large darts. A center back zipper can be incorporated into a dart, (shown in red on the right photo), eliminating a center back seam.

A wide strip of fabric allowed me to shift the bodice pieces around and play with the design placement.

Always fun to see the finished dress on a live model.

31 thoughts on “The Tel Aviv Dress”

  1. The Tel Aviv dress is stunning and I like the pop of red from the scarf. This is clearly advanced pattern design and construction at its best!

      1. Mary, I have a question about a purchase I made and can not find any other way than this to contact you directly. Thank you.

  2. A lovely masterpiece and fits her beautifully. I am not sure why she accessorized with that particular scarf as it detracts from the artistry of the garment. The workmanship is superb.

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