Tag: custom trim

Uncategorized

New Classes Posted

maryfunt

For those interested in attending a class, I have a French Jacket Class available from Monday, April 27 through Sunday May 3, 2026 in Palm Beach Gardens, FL.

What’s different about this class? I’ve found that fitting and adjusting a mockup jacket that students bring to class often takes a couple of days; time that could be spent working on your jacket. For this class, you’ll supply me with a detailed body measurement chart from which I’ll draft your custom pattern and stitch a mockup jacket. I’ll make any fit adjustments and you can proceed to cutting and sewing your jacket.

I have also developed a method which eliminates the pattern mismatch along the princess seams, especially noticeable on the front for curvier figures. You’ll learn how to eliminate this break in the horizontal pattern of the fabric.

We’ll also explore style options such as stand collar, zipper closure, buttons, V-neck and more. If you would like to create a coordinating trim, bring yarns plus extra fabric from which we’ll pull fibers and create perfectly matching trim. Additional details will be sent prior to class.

For information and registration: https://cloning-couture.com/products/french-jacket-class

Class limited to 10 students.

Monday, May 4 through Saturday May, 9 there will be an additional class during which you can pick your project. Choices are: Create a Custom Dressform, Draft a personal master pattern with variations, Make a Garment of your choice, maybe use an unfamiliar fabric or technique. You are also welcome to make or complete a French jacket. I’ve found many students have one or more unfinished jackets lurking in the closet and would love some help finishing.

Limited to 10 students.

Registration for this option: https://cloning-couture.com/products/couture-sewing-class

I’ve also received many requests for the recordings of two trim classes held this past June. The Basic Class covers the crochet techniques you’ll use when creating my versions of custom trims.

Basic Class: https://cloning-couture.com/products/create-custom-trims-class-tuesday-march-21-2023-5-7-00-pm-est

For those who have taken my Basic Class or are experienced with crochet, here’s the Advanced Class: https://cloning-couture.com/products/copy-of-create-custom-trims-class-tuesday-march-21-2023-5-7-00-pm-est

Uncategorized

Trim Class Info

maryfunt

If you have registered for the Couture Trim Class to be held this Saturday June 28 from 10 AM to 12 Noon Eastern Daylight Time (New York, USA time) you should have received a Zoom link for the class. Please check your spam folder if it’s not in your regular mail. If I’m not listed in your contacts, some servers dump this into your spam/junk folder.

Those who attended the Basic Class this past Saturday June 21 should have received a link to the recording. Again, check your spam folder if you don’t see it. Please download and save the recording before Saturday June 28 as I will be deleting the file to free up storage space.

The Couture Class will also be recorded and available for download sometime June 28 or 29, depending on how fast Zoom has the file ready.

Everyone will also be receiving a source list of suggested suppliers I frequently use.

Look forward to seeing everyone.

Uncategorized

Custom Trim Class Info

maryfunt

I’m looking forward to seeing all of you for the Trim Classes via Zoom. The Basic Class will be held this Saturday, June 21 from 10 AM to 12 Noon Eastern time ( USA). Couture Class scheduled for Saturday, June 28, 10 AM to 12 Noon Eastern time (USA).

Here are a few pics from my recent finds in Europe. Chanel boutiques in London, Paris and Milan provided tons of inspiration.

If you’ve registered for class/es you should have received a Zoom link plus any kits ordered. Please email me at MF953@aol.com ASAP if you haven’t received the link.

The Basic Class will cover crochet techniques I frequently use as a basis for many trims. You should be familiar with chain, single, double and half double stitches.

The Couture Class will do a quick review of basic techniques before diving into more complex designs. See you soon.

Uncategorized

Custom Trim Classes

maryfunt

Finally, after selling a house and moving the studio, I’m able to begin classes. First up will be trim classes via Zoom. The classes are recorded and available for you to download and rewatch as often as you like.

There will be a basic class offered on June 21. This class is wonderful if you’ve never done one of my trim classes. We will cover basic techniques I use to create custom trims which will coordinate with your fabric.

I will also be offering an advanced trim class on June 28. This class is best for those who are familiar with basic crochet stitches and have experimented with a few trims. We will be using higher quality fabrics, textured yarns plus pearls, rhinestones and more complex methods.

Link to classes and kits: https://cloning-couture.com/collections/trim-classes

The kits are available with and without crochet hooks. If you already have hooks in sizes C, D, E and F then be sure and order the kit without hooks. The kits are optional. If you have a selection of yarns in your stash, you can certainly use them. If you would prefer to follow along using the same materials I’ll be using, then a kit would be best. The Trim Tubes are used in many of the trims but aren’t an absolute necessity. You can always take the class and decide if the Tubes are something you would use.

If anyone is near London early May, I’ll be teaching an in-person class at Claire Tyler’s studio in Midhurst May 1 and May 2. For additional details and to register, this is the link to Claire’s site: Create Custom Couture Trim with Mary Funt – 1st & 2nd May 2025

-Additional classes are being planned: additional Zoom workshops, in-person at Mendel Goldberg Fabrics, NYC as well as Florida. Hope to see you soon.

Uncategorized

Future Classes

maryfunt

I’m working on my schedule for upcoming classes and asking for input as to what you would like to see offered. In the past I’ve done in-person sessions in south Florida and Rhode Island. A benefit of the pandemic was to make Zoom classes more mainstream. I’ve done numerous trim classes via Zoom as well as individual sessions tailored to creating a custom dressform and have been experimenting with French jacket classes.

Possible options include: in-person sessions in south Florida (Palm Beach Gardens area). Other locations are also under consideration. What topics are of interest? I’ve done sessions on French jacket construction, drafting a personal moulage/sloper and creating a custom dressform. Several have taken my boucle bomber jacket class and I’m scheduled to teach that in Portland, OR in October. Any interest in a bomber jacket class/ custom trim class at Mendel Goldberg Fabrics?

Zoom classes are great. They reach a worldwide audience plus no travel expenses, but virtual lessons remove the opportunity for hands-on fitting.

Leave a comment indicating what you might be interested in, location and time of year. You can also email me at: MF953@aol.com.

couture sewing, creating designer trim, Drafting Patterns, French Jackets

Cropped French Jacket with Matching Sheath Dress

maryfunt

The creation of this ensemble required much more problem solving than might appear. The fabric is a lovely designer boucle from Mendel Goldberg Fabrics and the contrast color stripes, both vertical and horizontal, presented a challenge in matching.

I constructed the sheath dress first. The darker navy stripe looked too dominate when placed on the center front. A better placement was to have the more muted blue stripe at center front. Placing the same at center back resulted in two dark navy lines next to each other along the side seam which didn’t look so wonderful. The solution was to move the center back just slightly and also shift the side seam towards the back.

The jacket was to be just below the waist with 3/4 length sleeves. My goal was to have the dominant stripes line up when the jacket and dress were worn together. A classic French jacket design has princess seams ending at the shoulder. While cutting the fabric as per the pattern fit my client’s custom padded mannequin, the extreme mismatch of the fabric design wasn’t so great.

My customary way of dealing with this is to shift the princess line closer to the neck and use steam to manipulate the fabric into shape. Anyone who has taken a French jacket class with me has experimented with this technique. Unfortunately, the fabric just wouldn’t cooperate. This boucle was mostly cotton, which doesn’t yield as easily as wool, to heat and steam. I might have been able to get away with putting in a dart, but the converging lines on the upper chest didn’t look great.

What worked best was to rotate the princess seam into a horizontal bust dart. I created a new princess seam which was shifted closer to the side seam and away from the bust point. Waist shaping was incorporated into the seam. Cut along the new seam line. The part of the dart closest to the side seam can be joined while the remainder of the dart forms what’s known as a Dior dart. Apply the same alteration to the back pattern by relocating the princess seam to start in the armseye. Waist shaping gets moved to the new seam lines.

Finished result of all this careful pattern work and attention to stripe placement. Vertical lines on both the dress and jacket match!! I was careful to place the horizontal pink stripes away from the fullest part of the bust. The Dior dart was also placed midway between two pink horizontal stripes so not not to appear awkward when sewn. Keeping the spacing between pink stripes consistent between the dress and jacket also needed to be taken into consideration. It probably looks effortless but if you’ve ever matched plaids, know otherwise.

The lining is a Pucci print chiffon underlined with pink silk crepe de chine. Yes, the lining was underlined. The chiffon print was such a perfect compliment to the boucle it had to be used but too transparent to hide the inner construction. Interestingly white underlining didn’t make the chiffon as opaque as a light pink.

Finishing details were handworked buttonholes with the reverse side of buttonholes finished with very narrow faux bound buttonholes. I used a variety of coordinating yarns plus a few fibers pulled from the boucle yardage as trim.

So much thought went into the creation of this and my client is thrilled with the result. Thanks for reading.

Uncategorized

Create Custom Trim Class

maryfunt

On Saturday September 9 and Sunday September 10, I’ll be presenting a workshop to the Haute Couture Club of Chicago demonstrating how to create custom trims. There are several spaces still available. Register through the Couture Club’s website here: https://hautecoutureclubchicago.com/crochet-jacket-trim.html

I can’t ship kits containing fabric samples and yarn to arrive in time but you don’t need the exact yarns I’ll be using for the demonstrations. The purpose of the workshop is to teach you various methods of making custom trims. You can then select yarns and fibers to coordinate with your own fabrics. I will send a supply list prior to class; basically you need crochet hooks in sizes D, E and F plus a selection of sport weight yarn. I will follow up with a detailed instruction manual of all the trims plus photos of each step used in the various trims. The manual will be sent to you as a pdf file which you can print out for your reference. Any questions please email me at mf953@me.com

Uncategorized

Class Updates

maryfunt

The Couture Trim class will be held Tuesday, May 2 from 5-7 PM (Eastern time USA). If you registered, you should have received a link via email to the class. If you didn’t receive it, please send me an email: MF953@aol.com ASAP. Most of the time, cyberspace cooperates but things do get misplaced, so check that you have the information to join the class.

When registering for an on-line class please include your email. I’ve had a couple of incorrect/missing email addresses. Unfortunately, I can’t send you a Zoom link without your email.

I’ve secured a larger workroom in Bristol, so there are a couple of openings in the Rhode Island class. The house we used last year will be used as well as another Air B&B which has a much, much larger workspace as well as 4 private rooms. I’ll be sending additional info over the summer to those registered.

There are a few openings in the Couture Trim workshop being held at Mendel Goldberg Fabrics in NYC, May 20, 21. We’ll experiment with loads of trim ideas to compliment the new collection of designer boucles.

Hope to see you soon, either virtually or in-person.

creating designer trim, French jacket trim, French Jackets, Uncategorized

Zoom Trim Classes

maryfunt

Interested in learning how to create custom trims to perfectly match your fabric? I’m offering several classes via Zoom in which we’ll explore various ways of creating trim. I developed these techniques after becoming frustrated with trims available in shops. Much of what I found was too thick, stiff and not the right colors to look like couture quality.

The classes offered on March 21 and April 11 will demo basic crochet stitches and we will create at least 6 different trims using a variety of techniques. Although I will go through all the stitches needed, you will enjoy the class more if you have a working knowledge and some practice with crochet.

Kits with crochet hooks are available if you wish to use the same materials I’ll be working with. Kits WITHOUT hooks are also available if you have hooks in sizes C, D, E and F. Purchase of a kit is not mandatory. You can source your own materials and use them along with the class. Classes are recorded and you will have one week to download the recording which you can then watch as often as you like.

I’m also offering a couture trim class on May 2. This class will focus on more complex trims using better quality fabrics and yarns. The trim kit for this class includes fabric from Mendel Goldberg and Linton Tweed plus many yarns sourced from Europe. Link for the trim kit WITHOUT hooks for those who have crochet hooks in sizes C, D E and F. You will enjoy this class if you are familiar with crochet and are comfortable working with trickier (slippery, multiple strands, metallic) yarns. You can also source your own fabrics/yarns and use this class as inspiration for creating your own versions.

Several of the trims utilize a set of brass tubes I’ve developed to facilitate trim making. I’ll demonstrate their use during class. Not all trims require their use. If you have a set, have them handy as they do make many aspects of trim easier.

I recently returned from a trip to London and was able to take photos of new Chanel trims in the Chanel shop (largest in the world) there. I’ll be showing images of trims I saw and we’ll explore how to recreate these designs for your fabrics.

Class dates are linked to registration. You may also browse the class offerings in the shop. Thanks for reading and hope to see you in class.

French jacket trim, French Jackets, Uncategorized

Jacket Trim

maryfunt

Finding trim for your French jacket is easier when you are working with a multi color fabric, especially one with black, white or another neutral color. I think finding something pre-made for this color would be near impossible. You could introduce a contrasting color but often that’s not what you want.

Here’s a step by step tutorial on the process I used for this trim. If you’ve taken one of. my Zoom trim classes, much of this will be familiar. I used a silver metallic yarn for the base of the trim. Using a D hook, chain the desired length. Turn and make a double crochet in the fourth stitch from the hook. Chain 1 stitch. Repeat this pattern (double crochet, chain 1) in every other stitch.

Photo on the right is a closeup of the finished crochet work. Top is “wrong” side with purl stitches, bottom image is “right” side with smoother chain stitches.

If you make several lengths of trim, be sure to be consistent in which side you choose as the “right” side. Some trims look better when one side vs. the other is used as the “right” side. For this jacket, I used the side with the purl stitches for the right side.

I used the shiny yarn with variegated shades of teal. Some yarns can be pulled through the fabric. This one didn’t pull easily, so I cut closely along each shiny yarn and pulled it out. Tie the strands together and work a chain stitch along the long edges of the metallic base. To determine number of stitches needed, I make a sample using 25 stitches. Measure the sample and multiply number of stitches by the desired finished length. This jacket required 600 stitches for a length of trim which would go around the hem, along front edges and around neck. The trim for the sleeves and pockets was worked as another piece.

The trim is uneven and needs to be steam blocked into shape. I used the third from the largest tube from the Trim Tube set. Weave the tube in and out between stitches and steam. Hover the iron over the trim; you don’t want to compress it. The tube is 12 inches long so steam 10-11 inches at a time, let cool, and weave the tube through the next section. The ends where the teal yarn has been tied together will be tucked underneath when stitching to the jacket.

Stitch the trim in place. It works best to sew the outer edge around corners, then work the trim in place along the inner edge. The join between lengths of teal yarn can be tucked to the underside. The trim is very flexible and easily navigates curves and corners. I join the trim at the left hem.

When you’ve determined where to join the ends, press hard to flatten only the trim which will be turned under. Use a tailors clapper to flatten the trim as much as possible and let cool. Turn the ends under and stitch. The join will be almost invisible.

To create a finished end (nice on pockets and the sleeve vent), measure the finished length needed. Starting along one long side (it’s harder to stop and start at a corner) make the chain stitch with teal yarn. To turn the corner, make two chain stitches in each corner. One stitch for the long side and one stitch for the short end. Make 1-2 stitches across the short end of the trim. Then two stitches in the next corner. When you reach the starting point, pull yarn to the underside and fasten with a few small hand stitches. To secure the metallic yarn, machine stitch across a few times, compress the end with steam and cut off close to the stitching. The flattened end will turn under.

I will be offering additional trim classes via Zoom. Probably one in December and more starting in January. There are also a few openings left in the January class if you would like to work in person. We’ll be doing a variety of projects in the class: pattern drafting, French jackets: both starting one and completing ones already begun, dressforms and more.

My trim classes have sold out quickly in the past, so leave a comment if you would like advance notification of the schedule. Have fun creating your custom trims.